Première Vision Trend SS23 Highlights

By Amelia Peng, for SSEAMS

The Best of Première Vision | Global events for fashion professionals

The source of inspiration and creation, creator of encounters and business accelerator for the global fashion industry.

Spring-Summer 23 is shaping up to be a season of rationality and positive energy, a reflection of a complex world where the real and the virtual, the natural and the artificial, the slow and the fast, the sustainable and the frivolous all interact with each other.

Beyond merely coexisting, these binary concepts are bound to and complement each other, to better address changes in consumer lifestyles, needs and behaviors.

The season invites us to explore unknown and exciting fields, from microcosms, to the study of imaginary and intangible spaces, of augmented and virtual realities.

The connection between nature and technology  –  a fundamental source of inspiration, creation and innovation – will serve as an aesthetic reference, an innovative and indispensable creative tool.

Striving for a balance between a virtuous design process and the frivolity of fashion, spring-summer 23 is built on the interaction of these approaches, on emotion, common sense and intuition.

Spring summer 23 is taking shape energetically, reflecting a complex world where the sustainable and the frivolous, the natural and the artificial, the real and the virtual all interact. 

Discover this trend highlights, dive into the spring-summer 23 season! 

The chapters focused on sustainability are echoed in strong and deep-rooted colours, shades drawn from the earth and the plant world. To innovate while embracing this sustainability, draws on biomimicry, a source of inspiration and creation, a link between nature and technology.

The chapters with themes related to nature and fantasy are conveyed by vigorously vibrant hues and dynamic synthetic colors, reinvigorated by a perfect and technical white. An immediate visual impact, a graphic simplicity underlining a confident decorative excess. Finally, sensitive nuances, tender alliances between blues and pinks, tell stories of water  – another of nature’s inspiring elements – in all its states. Lastly, the real/virtual dimension relates the fluctuations between imaginary and immaterial spaces, and unexplored natural spaces. 

Films

1. BIOMIMICRY

2. DIALOGUES

3. FRIVOLITY

4. INTERACTIONS

5. ORGANIC WHITE

6. CREATIVE INSPIRATIONS 

7. WATER STORIES 

8. FLUIDITY

9. EXPLORATIONS 

10. REAL & VIRTUAL 

11. EERINESS

Between pragmatism and frivolity, how can we reconcile attractiveness and sustainability?

Committed to change, fashion is working to ensure the coexistence of style with social and environmental considerations, throughout the entire product life cycle. A virtuous conception which is enriched by the diversification of collections.

The old favourites, organic fibres and linen, are joined by a wide variety of propositions. Hemp, nettles and cellulosic fibres from the recycling of textiles or agricultural by-products are entering the wardrobe. The exploration of functionalities and renewable resources is producing some ingenious developments in areas such as synthetic materials, tanning processes, dyes and finishes.

Eco-responsible qualities are becoming more refined, while demonstrating resistance to all tests, allowing for multiple uses and extending their lifespan. Production is traced from end to end to guarantee product origin, the transparency of processing operations, efficient management of water, energy and waste and an audit of the environmental impacts.

In a fashion landscape that is developing between the real and the virtual, respect for resources and people have become the cornerstone of a hybrid world, open to dialogue in order to build a better future.

Spring-Summer 23: Eco-responsibility highlights

This summer, diversity and traceability take center stage. The range of eco-responsible materials and processes is constantly expanding. Options are analyzed according to the whole of their impact, by tracing the products’ routes around the globe, from raw material to final finishing. No longer confined to now-classic organic cottons, recycled polyesters or vegetable-tanned leathers, these proposals celebrate the multiple qualities of various reduced-impact resources and technologies.

AUGMENTED NATURE

Prodigiously transformed, plant resources are metamorphosed into synthetic materials. By allowing us to gradually wean ourselves off hydrocarbons and use renewable natural resources, bio-sourced materials offer new realms of possibilities. Corn starch and castor oil are transformed into casual knits or high-performance windproof or waterproof warp and weft materials.

Finishes free of PFCs and polyurethanes partially produced from agri-food residues complete these virtuous compositions. Emerging materials combine recycling and bio-polymerization with leather offcuts upcycled in combination with polyurethanes of natural origin. Components play with the codes of mother-of-pearl, wood and leather, reworking their textures and appearances in bio-sourced propositions.

Tintex,  Eco-Biosourced polymers, Eco-Low chemical impact finishing, Repellent

Mario Cucchetti Tessuti –    Eco-Biosourced polymers Coating

VIRTUOUS COLOURS

Colours are enhancing this season’s materials while ensuring their harmlessness. Wools, cottons and sheep leather embrace the original shades of their raw materials. Common sense is also being applied to recycled materials, which are not over-dyed when up-cycled, in order to preserve their initial colour. 

Natural shades are produced at low temperatures and without the use of toxic mordants. Perfecting these techniques makes it possible to colour all fibres, whether natural, artificial or synthetic. Synthetic tanning offers a rich palette of shades. Its white base allows for optimised hold producing luminous pastels or intense, vibrant colours.

Canclini 1925  Undyed Recycle Material
PANGAIA Eco-Low chemical impact finishing, Eco-OrganicCotton

UNSUSPECTED RESOURCES

A pioneer in waste upcycling, Cupro has evolved towards eco-responsibility, by combining previously-unused cotton residues and closed-circuit production processes. By adopting these principles, agricultural by-products such as citrus peel, banana and pineapple leaves, hemp and nettle residues, rich in cellulose, are converted into artificial materials and new papers.

Sources of pre- and post-consumer textiles explore other perspectives. In terms of materials, cotton or artificial bases can be chemically recycled into new cellulose fibers. Another possibility is to produce innovative dyes from production offcuts and old clothes. Crushed to a fine powder, these colored textile microparticles can be used like pigments.

Bananatex®  CRADLE TO CRADLE  Eco-Biodegradable or compostable, Eco-Traceability, Waterproof

Spring-Summer 23: Sustainable Fabrics

Summer reflects a desire for versatile fashion and the importance of considering multiple possibilities in order to meet current tensions in raw material supply. Organic cottons are joined by flax, hemp, nettles, and virtuous cellulosic derived from agriculture or textile recycling. Synthetics refine the offer of recycled polyesters, polyamides, and elastanes, and continue to explore bio-sourced alternatives.

Essential bast fibres

Naturally virtuous, bast fibres require little irrigation, few pesticides and stock CO2, cementing their reputation as a sure sustainable value. In Europe, the re-industrialization of spinning mills restores the missing link in product development and results in total traceability certified by European flax® or Masters of linen®.

The popularity of refined linens in recent seasons has not diminished and is resulting in new opportunities for hemp and nettles. Hemp is embellished in propositions that have gained in fluidity or is softened when blended with organic cotton. Casual knits and wadding take advantage of the natural shine, strength and breathability of Himalayan nettles.

Somelos Tecidos   Hemp, Cotton, Eco-Waterless
PANGAIA   Eco-Biodegradable Organic cotton / Nettle / Sea cell fibre

Rethinking elasticity

Often seen as an impediment to recycling, elasticity can take different forms to ensure comfort on a daily basis, performance and impact reduction.The springy structures of wools and crepe threads offer mechanical suppleness and extension.The compositions of new generations of elastomer fibers are revealed in recycled or partially bio-sourced versions, with identical qualities to their oil-based cousins.In terms of optimized design, the stretch characteristic of polyesters and their derivatives, Sorona® or T400®, improve the recyclability of garments. The similar nature means that once blended, they are similar to a 100% polyester item.

Bold fluidity

TEX ATHENEA  Polyester – Easy-Care, Eco-Low chemical impact finishing, Eco-Recycled, Eco-Traceability, Eco-Waterless

Sport S/S23: Urban and Natural

Urban mobility and essential naturalness merge DNAs for high-performance, versatile and eco-conscious elegance. The raw material selection focuses on natural synthetics and organic cottons as well as linen and hemp. Recycled fibres avert the exploitation of fresh resources. Finishes are made from bio-based components. The fabrics infuse a chic cleanliness, a cottony matte-ness, or a minimalist mood enriched with directionality.

Innovations: From textile..to textile

While the term ‘recycled’ has flourished in collections these past few years, it is important to note that the vast majority of the recycled materials are synthetic, derived from the recycling of PET bottles.Less than 1% of materials are recycled from textile to textile. Today, the challenge is to take advantage of colossal pre- and post-consumer mass to develop the recycled fabrics of tomorrow.The answer lies partly in the field of chemical recycling, allowing for the revalorization of cellulose-containing resources into new artificial materials, which depends for the moment on wood pulp. Virtuous perspectives for eco-responsible fluidity!These new technologies offer an immense opportunity, since the recycling of 25% of cotton and 25% of cellulose materials currently in circulation would make it possible to replace all the wood currently used, according to Canopy. As a result of this promising finding, pilot projects have expanded and are now delivering solutions to the market on a large scale. Lenzing’s Refibra™, initially developed in 2017 with 20% recycled cotton, now uses 30% recycled cotton (5% post-consumer, and 25% pre-consumer) combined with 70% wood pulp in a lyocell process reusing 99% of solvents.Among new players, Renewcell is seeing nice expansion for Circulose. The Swedish pilot plant powered entirely by renewable energy now produces 7,000 tons of cellulosic pulp, entirely from textile recycling. This circular cellulose paves the way for the reuse of polyester-cotton mixes, with a technology that is currently able to extract the polyester, when present in minimal percentage, to retain only the cellulose from the cotton. The pulp obtained retains the same qualities as virgin wood cellulose, and therefore does not need to be mixed with another fibre to maintain an important quality grade.Another possibility offered by textile recycling is to create new ranges of pigments. This season, Officina+39’s Recycrom technology will be used to dye RDD knits.Production scraps or used textiles are transformed into colouring powder thanks to an innovative technique using only natural chemical substances.The range of shades surprises with the brightness and intensity of its colours, whereas one might assume that ‘recycled’ means ‘washed out.’Compatible with a wide variety of materials — cotton, linen, wool, artificial, or polyamide —these dyes are applied in suspension and so are easier to filter, making it possible to reduce treatment costs and to significantly improve filtration of wastewater.

Innovations: Food waste upcycling

The key materials of the Summer 2023 season stem from a veritable cornucopia. The appetite for novelty is here balanced by the exploration of co-products from the agri-food industry. Residuals of all kinds nourish supply diversification in the sector and intensify exploration of the science of materials.

Cottons and wood cellulose, which are under pressure, are leaving the field open to newcomers to ensure maximum optimisation of all resources extracted from the soil. Initially grown for food, bananas, pineapples, oranges or grapes will be analysed down to their slightest characteristics in order to extract rich possibilities from their by-products. Developed into knitwear, silk or linings, artificial neo-materials rely on industrial symbiosis to let the flow of resources circulate. Knowing that 1kg of fruit can generate up to 1.5kg of agricultural waste, we transition from an approach of extracting materials to an approach of valorising the slightest fibre. A way of allowing farmers to create additional income with the resale of by-products while reducing the pressure on the soil.

Frutfiber™ by Pangaia recovers and extracts fibres from banana and pineapple leaves that were originally left to decay or were burned after harvest. Mixed with bamboo Lyocell, these celluloses are produced in a closed circuit with reused water and solvents. To perfect the fabric, finishing is done with Pprmint™.  Derived from steam-extracted peppermint oil, without solvents or chemicals, this antibacterial and anti-odor treatment lets the garment stay clean longer and spaces out washings.

Agraloop Biofibre™ also collects crop waste as a source of new fibre. This season, these innovative regenerated celluloses explore residues of hemp seed oil. Hemp adds soil-regenerating qualities (from the natural removal of heavy metals and chemical residues) to Circular Systems’ virtuous technologies that reuse treatment water and give new life to solid waste as fertiliser.

Leather is not overlooked, with proposals that also recycle by-products from start to finish. Specialised in marine leathers from the food industry, Ictyos is pushing limits with its new tanning solutions. The Lyon-based company is using its know-how to develop vegetable tanning products derived from grape mills or beer brewing residues.

This approach is particularly effective since these extracts act as both tannins and colorants while providing salmon skins with unprecedented softness and suppleness.  

*Source:  Digital Première Vision Paris show     

So let’s explore unknown worlds, immerse ourselves in new ecosystems to seek out the unusual and a creative stimulus. Our search takes us to imaginary places and metaverses, places to rediscover, submerged worlds to wonder at and admire, the abyssal depths of the sea world.

Let’s truly observe nature, its changes and nuances – because we have to start with Mother Earth to meet consumers’ changing lifestyles, needs and behaviours. We’ll be designing our future by drawing on the relationship between nature and technology: science and research will team with the development of materials, colours and new production techniques to take innovation and creation beyond their current limits.

Let’s learn to listen to each other again, to follow common sense and intuition so we may be guided by rediscovered emotions and connections that bring us closer not just to nature, but to the human experience.

Let’s continue to try to slow down, to shake off conventional tenets and seasonal timings, to adjust to complex, manifold rhythms. Let’s open up aesthetic and temporal constraints by looking at circularity from every viewpoint.

Let’s think about digital in all its forms. Thanks to technology, we can embark on a truly mindful journey in search of a new balance between creativity and eco-responsibility.

The future is already here.  

Created by Amelia Peng, amelia@sseams.co

    
SSEAMS researches industry and market trends bi-annually. If you require TREND INSIGHTS, get in touch to discuss your requirements, hello@sseams.co

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